Upper Mustang Trek: Best Time, Permit Cost and 2027 Guide
Nepal Vision Treks
Oct 12, 2026
24 Min Read
On day seven, the trail climbs out of Syanbochen, crosses Yamda La at 3,850 metres and tops out on Nyi La at 4,010 metres. The green Kali Gandaki valley has already disappeared behind you. Ahead, the ground is the colour of rust and cut into ridges by wind, and the only sound is prayer flags snapping on a cairn. Your guide points to a white speck far below. That is Ghami, tonight's village, and the walk down passes long mani walls carved with prayers. This is the Upper Mustang trek. The walking is through high desert, with snow peaks in the distance and villages built in Tibetan style, and you will meet far fewer trekkers than on the Annapurna Circuit.
The best time to trek Upper Mustang is March to November, with the most reliable weather in October and November and the Tiji Festival in late spring. The Restricted Area Permit costs US$50 per person per day inside the restricted zone, plus the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit at NPR 3,000, and a licensed guide is compulsory. The trek suits fit walkers who want culture and desert scenery more than alpine peaks, and it works well as a second Himalayan trek after Annapurna or Manaslu. Nepal Vision Treks runs it as a 17 day trek from US$2,590 per person, either on open-group dates or privately on dates you choose.
What Is the Upper Mustang Trek?
The Upper Mustang trek is a walk from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang, the walled capital of the former Kingdom of Lo, and back. Upper Mustang lies north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, in their rain shadow, so it is dry, windy and barren in a way the southern side of the mountains is not. Geologically and culturally it belongs to the Tibetan plateau. The route follows part of the old salt trade road between Tibet and the Nepali hills, and Kagbeni, the gateway village, still sits on that road.
The culture is the reason most people come. Villages such as Tangbe have whitewashed houses, fields of barley, buckwheat and wheat, small apple orchards and chortens painted black, red and white. Lo Manthang has around 150 homes inside its mud walls, four major monasteries and the former royal palace. Mustang's own monarchy ended when Nepal abolished its monarchy in 2008, and the palace still stands in the centre of the town. Foreigners were not allowed into Upper Mustang until 1992, and entry is still controlled through a restricted area permit.
The scenery is different from the standard Nepal treks. Wind has carved the cliffs into red, yellow and grey columns. The trail climbs over passes between 3,600 and 4,010 metres, crosses dry riverbeds and runs past cave dwellings and ruined forts. On clear days you see Nilgiri, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri to the south.
Upper Mustang Trek at a Glance
Duration: 17 days, Kathmandu to Kathmandu, with about 10 days inside the restricted zone.
Route: Fly Pokhara to Jomsom, walk to Kagbeni, then Chele, Syanbochen, Ghami, Charang, Lo Manthang, Ghar Gompa, Ghiling and back to Jomsom.
Highest point: Nyi La at 4,010 metres. Highest night: Ghar Gompa at 3,942 metres.
Difficulty: Medium.
Accommodation: Hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara, teahouses and lodges on the trail.
Price: From US$2,590 per person, all inclusive, including permits.
Group: Open-group departures or a private trip on your own dates.
Best Time to Trek Upper Mustang
The best time to trek Upper Mustang is from March to November. Autumn (October and November) gives the most stable weather and the clearest skies. Spring (March to May) has long days, strong afternoon wind and the Tiji Festival. The monsoon months of June to August also work, because the region sits in a rain shadow. Winter, from December to February, is too cold for a standard trek.
Season | Months | What to expect | Crowds and lodges | Best for |
| Spring | March to May | Clear mornings, strong afternoon wind, dust, cold nights early in the season. Tiji Festival in late spring | Busy. Lo Manthang beds fill fast around Tiji | Culture-focused trekkers |
| Monsoon | June to August | Little rain in the rain shadow, green barley fields, warm days. Cloud can disrupt flights and the road below Jomsom | Quietest season | Trekkers who want empty trails and can allow spare days |
| Autumn | September to November | Stable weather, clear skies, cold nights from late October | Busiest season. Book early | First-timers who want the best odds of clear days |
| Winter | December to February | Severe cold, snow on the passes, many lodges and some villages closed as families move south | Few lodges open | Not recommended for a standard trek |
Autumn: September to November
Autumn is the season we recommend for most people. The monsoon clouds have gone, the air is clear, and the passes above 3,600 metres are dry. Days are comfortable for walking. Nights are cold, and by late November you will want a down jacket in the evening. The barley has been harvested, so the fields are gold and brown, and apples are ripe in the lower villages. Autumn is also the busiest season, so lodges in Lo Manthang have the fewest free beds. We run open-group departures in October and November, and private trips on any date.
Spring: March to May
Spring is the second-best season and the best one for culture. The Tiji Festival takes place in Lo Manthang in late spring, usually May or early June. Mornings are clear, and the fields start to turn green. The wind is the main difficulty. In the Kali Gandaki valley it usually builds from late morning, which is why your guide starts walking early and finishes before the worst of the dust. March can still be cold at night, and the highest passes may hold some snow.
Monsoon: June to August
Upper Mustang gets little of the monsoon rain that falls on the rest of Nepal, because the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges block the clouds. That makes it one of the few Himalayan treks that works in summer. The fields are green and the trails are quiet. The risks are outside the rain shadow. Flights between Pokhara and Jomsom run only in the morning and are cancelled when cloud sits in the gorge, and the road from Pokhara can be affected by landslides. If you trek in the monsoon, add at least one spare day at each end of the trek.
Winter: December to February
We do not run standard Upper Mustang treks in winter. Temperatures at night fall well below freezing, snow can close the passes, and many families in Lo Manthang and the villages around it move to lower ground for the season, which closes many lodges. For this season we only work with those who specially want to go out around this time.
The Tiji Festival
Tiji is a three-day festival in Lo Manthang, performed in the courtyard of Choede Monastery. The name comes from Tempa Chirim, which means Prayer for World Peace. Monks in masks and costumes act out the story of Dorje Jono, who defeats a demon that brought drought and storms to Mustang. The lamas of Choede Monastery fix the dates each year by the Tibetan lunar calendar. In 2026 the festival ran from 14 to 16 May. For 2027, operators currently quote 1 to 3 June, but dates are confirmed only in early 2027, so check before you book flights. Lo Manthang has limited beds, so book Tiji trips many months ahead.
Upper Mustang Permit Cost and Rules
The Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit (RAP) costs US$50 per person per day for the days you spend inside the restricted zone beyond Kagbeni. Until late 2025 the permit was a flat US$500 for the first 10 days. Nepal replaced it with a daily fee, so you now pay only for the days you are inside the zone. You also need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), which costs NPR 3,000 per person and has no daily limit.
Your total depends on how many days you spend inside the zone. Five days costs US$250, seven days costs US$350, ten days costs US$500 and twelve days costs US$600. Our 17 day itinerary spends about 10 days inside the zone, from Chele on day 5 to Kagbeni on day 14, so the Restricted Area Permit comes to roughly US$500 per person. Your quote confirms the exact figure. The US$2,590 trek price includes the Restricted Area Permit, the ACAP, the TIMS card and all paperwork.
Permit rules
- A licensed Nepali guide is compulsory. You cannot trek Upper Mustang independently.
- Only a registered Nepali trekking agency can apply for the permit. The application goes to the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu or Pokhara.
- Group-size rules have changed recently, and we confirm the current requirement when you enquire.
- You need a passport valid for at least six months, a Nepal visa, passport photographs and a detailed itinerary.
- Processing usually takes 3 to 5 working days and can stretch to 7 in the busy seasons, so apply at least two to three weeks before the trek.
- The permit is valid for specific dates, and the countdown starts when you enter the restricted zone at Kagbeni, not when the permit is issued.
- Rates for SAARC nationals differ, so ask us for the current figure.
At Kagbeni, a checkpoint officer checks your permit and passport before you enter the zone, so keep the originals with your guide and carry copies. Extensions are possible at the Department of Immigration but need a written reason and an updated itinerary, so plan the days you need before you apply. Our full Upper Mustang permit guide covers the documents, extension rules and penalties in detail.
How Much Does the Upper Mustang Trek Cost?
The Nepal Vision Treks Upper Mustang trek costs from US$2,590 per person for 17 days. That is a fixed, all-inclusive price for open-group departures, and private trips are quoted by group size and dates. About US$500 of the price is the Restricted Area Permit, which is why Upper Mustang costs more than the Annapurna Circuit, which starts from US$2,190 for 16 days, and the Manaslu Circuit, which starts from US$2,195 for 14 days.
What the price includes
Private-vehicle transfers in Kathmandu, deluxe twin-sharing accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast, a farewell dinner in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner on arrival, the tourist bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara, full board meals on the trek with tea, coffee and seasonal fruit, lodge or teahouse accommodation, a government registered English-speaking guide trained in first aid and eco practice, a Sherpa porter for every two trekkers, all permits and the TIMS card, a sleeping bag to borrow, a Nepal Vision duffel bag, a trekking map, a first aid kit and all government and local taxes.
What it does not include
International flights, visa fees, travel and rescue insurance, lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Pokhara beyond the welcome and farewell dinners, extra nights in Kathmandu if you arrive early or return early, tips, and personal gear. In Lo Manthang, every monastery asks for a donation or entry fee, and you pay these yourself.
Why we cost more than the cheapest operators
We are a bespoke agency focused on private trips and experiences. Our prices sit in the middle range, not at the bottom. A cheaper operator will quote you less for the same route, and we do not pretend otherwise. Here is where the difference goes.
We pay our guides and porters fair wages, and they come from the regions they work in. Every guide on our team has at least 15 years of experience, so the person watching you on the climb to Nyi La has led this kind of terrain many times. We use 4 or 5 star hotels in Kathmandu, depending on availability, so the nights either side of a long trek are comfortable. We practise sustainable tourism, we have 34 years of experience, and we do not cut corners to bring down the price. Upper Mustang is remote, flights are weather dependent and lodges are limited, so small savings tend to turn into problems on the trail. We think the price buys good value for money.
Who the Upper Mustang Trek Suits
Upper Mustang suits trekkers who want culture, empty trails and desert scenery, and who are comfortable walking 4 to 7 hours a day at moderate altitude. It is a medium-difficulty trek with no technical sections.
Fitness and age
Daily walking is 4 to 7 hours on dry, rocky trails with several climbs to passes between 3,600 and 4,010 metres. If you can walk for six hours with a daypack on consecutive days and climb 600 to 800 metres in a day, you can do this trek. There is no upper age limit. Fitness and good health matter more than age. A guide who knows when to slow the group makes the biggest difference.
First-time trekkers
Upper Mustang works as a first Himalayan trek if you are fit and prepared for dust and wind. The altitude is moderate, the first nights are at 2,858 and 3,050 metres, and the highest night is at 3,942 metres. If you want the gentlest introduction, our Ghorepani Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp treks stay lower and are easier on the body.
Second-time trekkers
Upper Mustang suits people who have already walked the Annapurna Circuit, Everest Base Camp or Manaslu and want something different. The pace is slower, the culture is more Tibetan than Nepali, and you will see far fewer foreign trekkers.
Photographers and culture lovers
The light is clean and the terrain is open, so photographers do well. Monasteries, painted chortens, cave dwellings and the walled town give plenty of subjects. Our rest day in Lo Manthang gives you time to visit the four major monasteries and the palace without rushing.
Families
Children under 10 do not need their own permit but must travel with parents. The days are long and the wind is hard on small children, so we suggest the Jomsom Muktinath Family Trek for younger families and Upper Mustang for teenagers who already trek.
Who it does not suit
Skip Upper Mustang if you want close views of snow peaks every day, since the big mountains stay in the distance. It is also not for trekkers who dislike dust, wind and sun, who need comfortable rooms every night or who cannot spare 17 days. Travellers with limited time can look at our Upper Mustang Heli Trip.
Upper Mustang vs Annapurna Circuit vs Manaslu
Upper Mustang is the quietest of the three and the only one that is mainly desert. The Annapurna Circuit (16 days, from US$2,190) crosses Thorong La at 5,416 metres and changes from subtropical forest to high desert, with many more lodges and many more trekkers. The Manaslu Circuit via Larkya Pass (14 days, from US$2,195) crosses Larkya La at 5,106 metres in a second restricted area, with big mountain views and Tibetan-style villages.
Altitude is the biggest practical difference. On Upper Mustang your highest night is 3,942 metres. On the Annapurna Circuit you sleep at 4,400 metres or higher before the pass, and on Manaslu you also spend nights above 4,000 metres. Choose Upper Mustang if culture, open dry country and lower passes matter most. Choose the Annapurna Circuit if you want the widest change of scenery and a famous pass. Choose Manaslu if you want close snow peaks in a remote setting. Our guide to how many days the Annapurna Circuit takes covers that trek in detail.
The 17 Day Itinerary
The 17 days split into three days in Kathmandu and Pokhara, 11 days on the trail including a rest day, and three days to fly, drive and depart. Days 1 and 2 are in Kathmandu. You arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, we take you to your hotel, and the evening includes a welcome dinner and a trip briefing. Day 2 is a guided tour of Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Swayambhunath and Kathmandu Durbar Square, and a pre-trip briefing with your guide in the evening.
Day 3: Kathmandu to Pokhara. A tourist bus takes 5 to 8 hours, depending on traffic, and you spend the evening by the lake.
Day 4: Pokhara to Jomsom to Kagbeni. A 20 minute flight lands at Jomsom (2,715 metres). You walk 3 to 4 hours along the Kali Gandaki riverbed to Ekley Bhatti and on to Kagbeni (2,858 metres), a wind-swept village on the old salt route. The first night is gentle on the body.
Day 5: Kagbeni to Chele (3,050 metres), 5 to 6 hours. After the permit check at Kagbeni you enter Upper Mustang and follow the Kali Gandaki upstream. You pass Tangbe with its black, red and white chortens and cross to Chele, where the Tibetan influence shows in the house decoration.
Day 6: Chele to Syanbochen (3,475 metres), 6 to 7 hours. The trail crosses a series of spurs and Taklam La at 3,624 metres, with views of Tilicho Peak, Nilgiri and Damodar Danda.
Day 7: Syanbochen to Ghami (3,520 metres), 5 to 6 hours. You climb to Yamda La at 3,850 metres, walk between poplar avenues and barley fields, cross Nyi La at 4,010 metres, the highest point of the trek, and descend to Ghami.
Day 8: Ghami to Charang (3,500 metres), 4 to 5 hours. A shorter day past a series of mani walls to Charang, with its white dzong and red gompa.
Day 9: Charang to Lo Manthang (3,700 metres), 5 to 6 hours. You climb to the windy Lo La at 3,850 metres, where you first see the walled city. The only gate is in the north-east corner.
Day 10: Rest day in Lo Manthang. You visit the four major monasteries, the palace and the lanes inside the walls. Entry fees and donations are paid by you.
Day 11: Lo Manthang to Ghar Gompa (3,942 metres), 4 to 5 hours. The route takes you past a last view of the walled city and down into the valley to the monastery of Ghar Gompa. The wind and dust are worst in the afternoon, so we walk in the morning.
Day 12: Ghar Gompa to Ghiling (3,806 metres), 5 to 6 hours. A short descent through the valley, stopping early to avoid the evening dust.
Day 13: Ghiling to Chele, 5 to 6 hours, with Himalayan views along the trail.
Day 14: Chele to Jomsom, 6 to 7 hours. This is the longest day on the way back. You pass through Kagbeni, leave the restricted zone and rejoin the Annapurna Circuit trail.
Day 15: Jomsom to Pokhara by 20 minute flight, between the gorges of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.
Day 16: Pokhara to Kathmandu by road, 5 to 7 hours, with a farewell dinner.
Day 17: Departure.
A Typical Day on the Trail
Walking days follow a pattern. Breakfast is early, and you start walking by about 7:30am, because the wind in the valley builds from late morning and the trail is dustier by afternoon. You walk 4 to 7 hours with a stop for lunch at a teahouse along the way, and you reach the next village by mid-afternoon. That leaves time to wash, rest, wander the village and visit a monastery before dinner. Evenings are cold, so the dining room, with its stove, is where everyone gathers. Most trekkers are asleep by 8:30pm. Expect dry air, cracked lips and occasional nosebleeds, which are normal at this altitude and easy to manage with lip balm, saline spray and plenty of water.
Altitude, Health and Safety
Upper Mustang is high but not extreme. You sleep between 2,858 and 3,942 metres, and the highest pass is 4,010 metres. That is lower than the Annapurna Circuit, which crosses Thorong La at 5,416 metres. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) still happens at these altitudes, especially in trekkers who fly from Pokhara at 823 metres to Jomsom at 2,715 metres in 20 minutes and then gain height on the following days. Our itinerary builds in gentle first nights at 2,858 and 3,050 metres, and a rest day in Lo Manthang.
Know the early signs of AMS: headache, nausea, dizziness, poor sleep and loss of appetite. If symptoms get worse at rest, do not climb higher. Breathlessness at rest, confusion or loss of balance mean descend now. Drink at least 3 litres of water a day, because the air is dry. Tell your guide at the first sign of a headache.
Our guides are government registered and trained in first aid, and they monitor every trekker daily, including oxygen saturation. Upper Mustang is remote, and rescue is slower than in the Everest or Annapurna regions, so insurance matters. Your travel insurance must cover emergency helicopter evacuation and medical treatment up to at least 4,500 metres. Send us your policy before you travel.
The sun is strong at altitude, and the dust is hard on eyes and lungs. Bring a buff, sunglasses with side protection, lip balm with SPF, eye drops and a wide-brimmed hat.
Culture and Etiquette in Mustang
Upper Mustang is a living Tibetan Buddhist region, not a museum, and a few habits show respect. Walk clockwise around chortens, mani walls and monasteries, which means keeping the wall on your right. Do not step over mani stones or prayer flags. Remove your hat and shoes before entering a prayer hall, dress modestly, and ask your guide before taking photographs inside a monastery, since many prayer halls do not allow them. Ask people before photographing them, especially monks and elders. Leave the donation your guide suggests at each monastery. During Tiji, keep a respectful distance from the dance courtyard and do not use flash.
Getting to Upper Mustang: Flights, Roads and Spare Days
Most trekkers fly from Pokhara to Jomsom, a 20 minute flight between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. Flights leave in the morning because the wind in the Kali Gandaki gorge grows stronger through the day, and they are cancelled when cloud or wind closes the gorge. If a flight is delayed, you wait a day or look at alternatives such as a long road transfer by jeep or a chartered helicopter, both at extra cost. The same applies on the way back. A buffer day at each end of the trek removes most of the risk, and on a private trip we can add one. Without a buffer, a missed flight on day 15 can cost you your international departure.
How the Road Has Changed the Trek
A jeep road now runs from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang. Some sections of the trek share the road, and jeeps raise dust on busy days. Where a footpath exists, your guide will take it, and the high passes at Taklam La, Yamda La and Nyi La are still crossed on foot. The road does not change the culture of the villages or the monasteries, and it has made the region more accessible to local people. It does mean the trek is no longer the lonely walk it was twenty years ago, and we are honest about that when you book.
How to Prepare and Train
Start training 8 to 12 weeks before departure. Walk three or four times a week, building to 5 or 6 hours with a loaded daypack on consecutive weekend days. Add hill repeats or stair climbing to prepare for the passes, and strengthen your calves and knees for the long descents. Train in the boots you will wear, and practise with walking poles. Two weeks before you leave, stop adding distance and let your legs recover. See your doctor for a general check, and ask about altitude medication if you have never been above 3,000 metres.
What to Pack
Pack for wind, dust, sun and cold nights. A wind jacket, a down jacket for evenings, a warm hat, sun hat, sunglasses, buff and gloves matter more here than a heavy waterproof. Bring sturdy trekking boots, walking poles for the passes, a daypack, a water bottle and purification tablets or a filter. We lend you a sleeping bag and a Nepal Vision duffel bag. Carry cash for tips, donations at monasteries and drinks, because there are no cash machines on the trail.
Common Mistakes First-Time Upper Mustang Trekkers Make
Underestimating the wind. Most people pack for cold and forget that wind is what wears you down. A windproof shell and a buff matter more than an extra fleece.
Leaving no spare days. The Pokhara to Jomsom flight is the weak point of the trip, and a trek with no buffer leaves no room for a cancelled flight.
Booking Tiji late. Lo Manthang has a limited number of beds, and festival dates draw visitors from all over the world, so festival departures are among the first to fill.
Applying for permits late. The permit takes 3 to 7 working days to process, and any error in your passport details or itinerary adds time. Send your documents early.
Skipping eye and lip care. Dust, sun and dry air cause more discomfort on this trek than altitude does for many people. Sunglasses with side shields, eye drops, lip balm and a buff solve most of it.
Treating the rest day as optional. The rest day in Lo Manthang is when your body adjusts, and it is also the day you see the monasteries and the palace. Do not trade it for a longer walk elsewhere.
Why Trek Upper Mustang with Nepal Vision
Nepal Vision Treks has run trips from Kathmandu since 1992, the same year Upper Mustang opened to foreign trekkers. In 34 years we have conducted more than 8,000 trips for travellers from more than 80 countries. We are members of lots of governing organizaitons in Nepal and internationally, and our office is at Dabali Marga in Thamel, Kathmandu.
Every Nepal Vision trek runs privately on dates you choose, with the pace, rest days and flights built around your group. Upper Mustang is a remote trek where weather and permits shape the plan, and that is where experience helps.
Upper Mustang Trek FAQs
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Ready to Plan Your Upper Mustang Trek?
Tell us how many days you have, your fitness and the season you prefer, and we will design a private Upper Mustang trek around you, with a guide who has at least 15 years on these trails. Speak to the Nepal Vision Treks team at nepalvisiontreks.com or message us on WhatsApp at +977 9802342081.
